Hops & Hominy Experience

Remember James' little "test" trip to Oakland on Friday? Let's pick it up from there. We're now in the city, and headed for Hops & Hominy.

This Southern-style restaurant was featured on The Food Network's "Road Trip with G. Garvin." Until then, I've never heard of them. Since Southern food is one of my favorites, and is hard to find, especially in my neck of the woods, it was something I'd like to try. It is located at the end of a (very) short alley (Tillman) off Sutter and Grant streets in the Union Square area of San Francisco.

As we walked up a short flight of stairs to the entrance, we were greeted by a hostess, who showed us to our reserved table, up a few steps to a loft-like dining section on the right side of the restaurant. On the opposite side was the larger, lower main dining area with a bar towards the corner. The place had an industrial/plantation-like atmosphere. For a space that's not too big, it was darn LOUD and NOISY. I was a little surprised that it wasn't as crowded as I thought it would be considering it was a Friday night.

Cornbread & Whipped Butter

Once seated, our server introduced himself and gave us menus. It was so noisy I didn't hear his name nor hardly understood what he was saying. I felt he was rushing all the time. The section where we were seated at was a bit dark. Reading the menu became a struggle. The table next to us had to use his cellphone as flashlight so we can see what he was reading.

The menu wasn't extensive. It contained a few traditional Southern favorites so selecting what to eat didn't take that long. I pretty much get the same type of dish, as I love to compare. It's my barometer whether or not a restaurant is worth coming back to.

All three of us ordered there most popular dish, Buttermilk Battered Chicken. It's organic and free-range, served with creamed collard greens and cornbread on the side. For starters, James and I got Baked Mac & Cheese, while the wife got Fried Oysters, encrusted in cornmeal, with a pepper mignonette for dipping. While we waited for our dishes, complimentary corn bread on a small hot skillet, with whipped butter, was served.

Mac & Cheese

The mac & cheese came in small, rectangular skillets -- same as the cornbread. It appeared to have been baked well, with a nice crust on the melted cheese on top, and sprinkled with bits of bacon. The macaroni was cooked well and the cheese(s) that held everything together was quite creamy and rich. I thought it was a bit too much for one person, but I finished mine nonetheless. It was good, but not as good as Pican's gouda mac n' cheese. Even without bacon, Pican's was rich, flavorful, and truly sinful.

The fried oysters were HUGE. I've had fried oysters before but I have never seen anything as big. The amount of cornmeal was just right, and the oysters remained tender and quite moist. The dipping sauce complimented the entire dish. Again, I thought the portion was a bit too much for one, as I had two pieces myself.

Fried Oysters

Now, the main course. Mary's free-range chicken. It came in 3 pieces, with a side of creamed collard greens in a (small) ramekin typically used for dipping sauces and a piece of cornbread. The chicken was drizzled with a little bit of hot sauce. As soon as I saw the chicken, I knew it wasn't crispy. True enough, it wasn't. As a matter of fact, the batter hardly stuck to the chicken. It looked like half the batter fell off before it even reached the fryer.

What did I think? For crispness, I gave it an "F", for fail. And the hot sauce, drizzling it over the chicken didn't do the dish any good. It should have just been served on the side. One consolation though. The chicken was moist and tender. If I was blindfolded and didn't know it was suppose to be fried, I could have mistaken it for being slightly overbaked or left in the rotisserie just a tad too long. Whether that's good or bad, you be the judge.

Buttermilk Battered Chicken

Like the other dishes, I felt 3 pieces were a bit too much. But the pieces were a little bit small, so I guess it was OK. I didn't finish mine and left some meat on the breast (I hate white meat). If I didn't have the mac & cheese, I could have finished everything. Overall, the chicken was a "D" -- for disaster. Pardon my bias, but Hops' fried chicken pales in comparison to Pican's. Theirs come in 2 large pieces that are super crispy, yet tender and moist, the way real Southern fried chicken should be.

Peach Cobbler

We had two desserts -- a chocolate cake something and peach cobbler. I was surprised they didn't have their desserts listed on the menu. We had to listen to the server as he rattled off each one. We had to have him repeat it because we didn't remember everything he said. It was kind of awkward because you're put on the spot to make a selection, or worse case, not order any. There was no time to think it over. I didn't try the chocolate thing, but both wife and son said it was good. My peach cobbler was super rich and super sweet. The peaches were roasted (or grilled), served in halves, and temperature hot. They were quite tangy, too. I would have enjoyed it had it been less sweet and the peaches cut in smaller pieces. But I have yet to try a peach cobbler that won't make you a diabetic.

Final verdict. The experience wasn't bad. It was OK. Certainly nothing to rave or go gaga about. The noise just killed me, and the chicken was a major disappointment. It'll probably take me a (long) while before I come back, if ever.

Hops & Hominy is located at 1 Tillman Place, San Francisco, CA 94108. (415) 373-6341.